When the Southern Alps winter settles in with its oppressive grey inversion and leaden skies, an escape to warmer climates is always welcome. Instead of enduring weeks of mood-dampening low cloud, we packed our bike boxes and flew to the other side of the world, to Georgia—a country we knew almost nothing about beyond promises of good food, friendly people, and beautiful bike packing.
Georgia immediately revealed itself as a nation caught between worlds. In Tbilisi, 300-year-old crumbling buildings and narrow alleyways had a very European feel which sat alongside modern post soviet era development. This crossroads between Europe, Asia, and the Middle East wore its complex identity openly, creating a fascinating cultural corner.
The real Georgia emerged as we began cycling from Zugdidi into the mountains. Three days of continuous uphill riding was different to the shorter, punchy climbs of NZ. Yet this sustained effort proved meditative, allowing our minds to wander and settle into the rhythm of long-distance cycling as we passed through farming villages and landscapes dotted with 10th-century Svan towers as we climbed deep into the ancient region of Svaneti in the Upper Caucasus mountains.
Surprisingly, many roads that cycling blogs had described as rough gravel or dirt tracks just years earlier had been freshly paved with concrete, reflecting Georgia's infrastructure investment. Still, plenty of alpine single track remains for the adventurous crew willing to get off the beaten track.
Georgia's most striking feature was its temporal confusion. Ancient agricultural practices— farmers with horses and wooden ploughs, elderly women in traditional dress planting by hand, shopkeepers using abacuses—coexisted with obvious wealth displayed through expensive European cars. Ironically, 80% of these status symbols were missing their front ends, retaining only the license plate, headlights and turn signals.
Georgian cuisine consistently amazed us: massive broth-filled dumplings, freshly baked Khachapuri, warming beef stews, and endless cucumber-tomato salads. I’m sure we left heavier than when we arrived. Children regularly emerged from the fields wanting selfies and English practice opportunities, while lunch stops sometimes attracted groups of curious, friendly locals watching us eat lunch.
Georgia delivered everything we'd hoped for and more. The combination of jaw-dropping mountain scenery, deep historical complexity, genuine human warmth, and exceptional food created an experience that is unforgettable. This "big, high, beautiful place" of extremes and compelling contradictions has captured our hearts, we’ll be back in the future to explore more of this remarkable country that sits at the crossroads of civilizations.
Bike Packing Gear:
Written and Photographed by Ross Mackay
